May Rose (Rosa centifolia): Also Known as Rose de Grasse and Cabbage Rose

May Rose, also known as Rose de Mai (Rose de Mai) or Rose de Grasse, is one of the most cherished and legendary ingredients in the world of perfumery. Its exclusivity stems from the fact that it blooms only once a year in the month of May, in the region of Grasse, France, the heart of the perfume industry. Interestingly, this variety of rose is also known as the Cabbage Rose. This name derives from the rose’s unique, rounded petals that are layered in a way that resembles the appearance of a cabbage. It emphasizes the flower’s full, dense bloom and its distinctive, voluminous shape.

Hand-harvested early in the morning when its fragrance is at its peak, the petals are known for their exceptional quality, making them a prized raw material in high-end perfumery. This labor-intensive process, paired with the rose’s olfactory richness, makes it a symbol of elegance and femininity in perfume compositions.

Whether referred to as Rose de Mai or Rose de Grasse, or even Cabbage Rose, this flower holds a legendary status due to its scarcity, rich history, and the exceptional quality of its scent. Its use in perfumes represents the pinnacle of sophistication, making it a treasured component in luxury and niche fragrance collections.

May Rose fragrance profile

The May Rose fragance profile is richly multifaceted, highlighting its elegance, versatility, and timeless allure in the realm of perfumery:

• Floral: At its heart, May Rose delivers a luxurious, velvety floral scent that embodies the classic essence of roses. It is soft, feminine, and elegant, imparting refinement and grace to fragrance compositions.
• Sweetness: This rose exudes a natural sweetness often compared to honey or candied petals. The delicate sweetness enhances the perfume’s richness without overwhelming, making it an ideal heart note in floral blends.
• Green and Fresh Notes: Beneath its floral richness, May Rose carries subtle green and fresh nuances reminiscent of freshly picked petals and dewy gardens. These green elements introduce brightness and balance, preventing the fragrance from becoming overly sweet.
• Spicy Undertones: Some variations of May Rose feature faint spicy undertones, adding a layer of complexity and warmth. These subtle hints of spice contribute an intriguing, slightly earthy quality to the overall scent.
• Longevity and Sillage: May Rose typically offers good longevity and moderate sillage, ensuring its presence without being overwhelming. It remains perceptible over time, providing a lasting impression.
• Blending Versatility: May Rose blends harmoniously with a range of notes, including other florals, fruits, and woods. Its versatility makes it a sought-after ingredient in both traditional and modern perfume formulations.
• Historical and Cultural Significance: May Rose has been cherished throughout history as a symbol of beauty and romance. Its timeless appeal continues to be celebrated in contemporary perfumery.
• Variants and Quality Differences: The quality of May Rose can vary based on cultivation methods and extraction processes. Roses from Grasse are particularly esteemed for their exceptional fragrance, reflecting the high standards of the perfume industry.

The Harvesting Process of May Rose

The harvesting process of May Rose (Rosa centifolia) is a meticulous and time-sensitive procedure that ensures the highest quality of rose oil and other products. Here’s an overview of the process:

1. Timing and Conditions

• Optimal Harvesting Time: May Roses are typically harvested in May and early June, when the flowers are in full bloom. This is the ideal time to capture the richest fragrance and highest concentration of essential oils.
• Weather Conditions: Harvesting is usually done early in the morning, right after the dew has dried but before the sun becomes too strong. This helps preserve the delicate scent and essential oils.

2. Harvesting Technique

• Manual Harvesting: The roses are picked by hand to avoid damaging the flowers. Harvesters gently pluck the blossoms, ensuring that only the fully opened flowers are chosen. The flowers are typically collected in baskets or buckets.
• Avoiding Damage: Care is taken to avoid bruising the petals, as damaged flowers can affect the quality of the essential oil and other products.

3. Handling and Processing

• Immediate Processing: After harvesting, the roses should be processed as quickly as possible to maintain their freshness and fragrance. Delay can lead to the loss of essential oils and fragrance.
• Sorting and Cleaning: The flowers are sorted to remove any damaged or undesirable petals. They are then cleaned to remove any dirt or debris.

4. Extraction Methods

• Steam Distillation: The most common method for extracting essential oil from May Roses. The flowers are steamed to release their essential oils, which are then condensed and collected.
• Solvent Extraction: Sometimes used for producing rose absolutes. This method involves using solvents to extract the oils from the petals, followed by removing the solvents to obtain a concentrated rose oil.

5. Quality Control

• Inspection: The extracted oil is inspected for quality, including fragrance, color, and purity. This ensures that the final product meets industry standards.
• Storage: The essential oil is stored in dark glass bottles away from light and heat to maintain its quality over time.

6. Environmental and Sustainability Considerations

• Sustainable Practices: Efforts are made to ensure that harvesting practices are sustainable and do not negatively impact the environment. This includes managing rose fields to maintain soil health and biodiversity.

The May Rose’s delicate nature and the intricate process of harvesting and processing contribute to its high value in perfumery and aromatherapy.

The Olfactory Profile of May Rose

The olfactory profile of May Rose or Grasse Rose is distinguished by its rich, complex, and multifaceted scent:

1. Top Notes (5 to 15 minutes)

• Fruity: The initial scent often includes fresh, fruity notes reminiscent of apples or pears.
• Green: There might be a subtle green or leafy aroma, giving a sense of the rose’s freshness.

2. Heart Notes (20 to 60 minutes)

• Floral: The dominant characteristic is a rich, opulent floral scent with a deep, luxurious quality. It’s often described as creamy and smooth, with a velvety texture.
• Spicy: There are occasionally hints of spicy nuances, such as a touch of clove or cinnamon, adding complexity to the floral heart.

3. Base Notes (more than 6 hours)

• Sweet: A sweet, honey-like undertone emerges as the scent develops, enhancing the rose’s warm and inviting qualities.
• Powdery: There can be a soft, powdery aspect that gives a sense of elegance and sophistication.

4. Overall Characteristics

• Complexity: The scent profile is known for its depth and complexity, offering a harmonious blend of sweet, floral, and subtle spicy notes.
• Richness: May Rose has a notably rich and full-bodied fragrance, making it highly valued in perfumery for its luxurious and enduring quality.

5. Comparison to Other Roses

• Damask Rose: While both May Rose and Damask Rose have complex floral profiles, May Rose tends to be creamier and sweeter, whereas Damask Rose is known for its sharper, more distinctive floral and spicy notes.

The olfactory profile of May Rose contributes to its esteemed place in perfumery, where it’s used to create elegant and sophisticated fragrances.

How May Rose is Used in Perfumery

This is how May Rose, a highly prized in perfumery for its rich, complex, and luxurious fragrance is commonly used:

1. Essential Oil Extraction

• Steam Distillation: The most common method for extracting May Rose essential oil. The delicate steam extraction process preserves the intricate scent profile of the rose.
• Solvent Extraction: Used to produce rose absolute, a more concentrated form of the fragrance. This method involves using solvents to extract the oil, which is then purified to obtain the final product.

2. Formulation in Fragrances

• Heart Note: May Rose is primarily used as a heart note in perfume compositions. Its rich, floral scent adds depth and complexity to the fragrance.
• Blending: It is often blended with other floral, fruity, and woody notes. Common pairings include jasmine, bergamot, sandalwood, and patchouli, creating harmonious and well-rounded fragrances.

3. Types of Fragrances

• Floral Perfumes: May Rose is a key ingredient in many floral fragrances, where it imparts a luxurious and opulent character.
• Chypre and Oriental Perfumes: It can also be found in chypre and oriental perfume families, where its sweet and creamy notes complement other rich and exotic elements.

4. Product Forms

• Perfume Concentrates: Used in high-end perfume concentrates and eau de parfums to achieve a sophisticated and lasting scent.
• Skincare and Cosmetics: Often included in luxury skincare products and cosmetics for its fragrant and potentially soothing properties.

The rich and multifaceted nature of May Rose makes it a valuable ingredient in perfumery, prized for its ability to impart a sense of elegance and luxury to any fragrance.

May Rose in Modern and Niche Perfumes

May Rose is celebrated in both modern and niche perfumery for its exquisite and complex fragrance profile. Here’s how it’s utilized in these contexts:

Modern Perfumes

• Luxurious Appeal: In contemporary perfumes, May Rose is used to impart a sense of luxury and sophistication. Its rich, floral notes blend seamlessly with modern scent profiles, often featuring fruity, spicy, or woody elements.
• High-End Brands: It’s a staple in high-end and designer fragrances, where it contributes to the creation of opulent and memorable scents.

Niche Perfumes

• Unique Formulations: Niche perfumers often highlight May Rose for its distinctive and multi-layered aroma. It’s used to craft exclusive, artisanal fragrances that emphasize individuality and creativity.
• Signature Ingredients: In the niche market, May Rose is valued for its rarity and depth, making it a key ingredient in perfumes designed to stand out and offer a unique olfactory experience.

In both realms, May Rose’s rich and luxurious fragrance continues to captivate and inspire, elevating the art of perfumery with its timeless elegance.

Frequent asked questions about May Rose